48HD Elite Deluxe large dog trap- Made in the USA |
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| Item #48HD Dog Trap Mfg. Price: $277.99 Our Prices: (1) $226.00 ea. (2-5) $214.70 ea. (6-15) $203.40 ea. (16+) 192.10 Average motor freight shipping/handling: $135-$220 Commercial shipping runs about $70.00 less than residential. |
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Rear door for easier baiting, animal releases and allow transfer to carriers or holding cages.) Size: L48" x W20" x H26" Weight: 38 lbs. Construction: 1/4" & 5/16" steel rod frame - 12 gauge 2" x 1" wire mesh. Trap for large dogs - german shepherd size dog trap, coyote trap. |
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We highly recommend the wheel kit with this model for easier moving of dog trap. Click here for Wheel Kit for large dog traps.  |
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| VERY IMPORTANT: The boxes need to be inspected thoroughly on all sides for any apparent damage that can occur during shipping. Do not sign for boxes that have damage where you can tell the trap inside is damaged. Refuse the trap, the motor freight company will ship the trap back to us and another trap will be shipped to you. Please unbox trap right away to inspect for any hidden damage. If there is any damage, call us immediately with description of damage so a claim can be filed. After 10 days from delivery, claims will be denied by the trucking companies. So it's very important to inspect upon arrival and unbox and inspect again within 2 days of receiving. When you sign for a trap, you are accepting it as undamaged. When you do sign, also write "with possible hidden damage". | |
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Our TD1 trap dividers are highly recommended for these dog traps. It goes through the side of the dog trap pinning the dog in while the door is open. A restraint pole can be used through the tines of the divider to loop the dog's neck, secure it, pull out divider and you have a securely restrained dog to lead off to vehicle. They can also be used to pin dog to side of trap for injections without removing the dog from the trap.. |
Click here to view pictures of a coyote captured by our 72D largest trap. Our customer was intending to capture a mountain lion, so note that the 42D, 48F, and the 60D work equally as well for coyotes. |
| FEATURES / BENEFITS: |
| 5 year warranty against animal damage. Complies with State and Federal humane ordinances. Powder-coated brown finish for low visibility and long life. Very good for domestic animals. Lay-down, heavy-duty handle, large enough for winter mittens. Unique self-locking, positive-catch door lock. Animal cannot back out once trip is activated. High-tempered locking rings on door catch. Extra heavy-duty, variable trigger setting mechanism. Steel frame featuring machine-made framing. Easy to camouflage, set and chain and lock to a stationary object. Ideal for transporting animals. All weather features make this trap ideal for snow or water conditions. Turn trap upside down and door will automatically open for release. Durable for stacking, shipping, and storage. Praised by police departments, animal control center, humane societies, and fish and game authorities. Please check your animal traps often, once every hour is recommended. In hot weather, make sure the trap is in the shade. |
Guidelines for trapping domestic and feral wild dogs
Over the years we have heard many sad stories about dogs. For people who lose a pet dog it’s like losing a family member, a loved ‘child.’ We can sympathize as we personally treat our dogs like they are our kids.
I’ll address the domestic dog issue first. If your dog has gone missing, call local shelters, animal control, the police, etc. to see if someone has picked up your dog running loose. Many times, the dog is at the pound or animal shelter, waiting for you to pick him up. If not, then put up posters, phone neighbors, have them look in their yards and outbuildings, contact Craig’s List, put a lost dog ad in your local newspaper, it’s important to communicate as much as you can that your dog is missing. If you receive reports that your dog has been spotted in a certain area, that’s where you should concentrate your search. Someone may be feeding the dog or there is a ready food supply that is keeping him or her in a certain place.
Suggested Dog Traps to Use
If you decide to use a trap, make sure it is large enough to accommodate your dog. We suggest the 42D dog trap for medium dogs and the 48HD dog trap or 60D dog trap for the larger dogs. These are made by Tru-Catch, are powder coated brown and close quietly by gravity. Hot dogs are good as bait, if it rains or snows, the hot dog remains intact. Meat of any kind also works but make sure it is fresh or cooked. Spoiled meat or fish can make your dog sick. Don’t use raw or cooked chicken with bones. Your dog could choke on the bones. Put a piece of clothing, a favorite toy or his dog blanket in the trap. This scent will be familiar to your dog. Make sure the bait is placed behind the trip plate so he has to walk to the back and step on the trip pan to reach the bait. If your dog is hesitant to go into the dog trap, tie the trap door up for a few days, baiting in the center of the trap, this gets the dog used to going in and out for food. On the 4 or 5th day, untie the trap door and place the bait behind the trigger. Covering the trap with an old blanket might be more enticing for your dog. The dog might feel more secure if he/she feels hidden. Of course, we recommend using high quality animal handling gloves for your protection against scratches and bites.
Evening at dusk is the best time to trap. The weather is cooler and your dog will tend to come out of hiding to search for food. Make sure other people are absent as the voices and movements might prevent your dog from coming out. You might have to leave and let the trap do its work. Check early in the morning or as often as you can to see if you were successful. You might find another dog in your trap and have to start over with the procedure.
Trapping wild feral dogs
It’s very hard, sometimes impossible to tell the difference between a stray and feral dog. Stray dogs have been abandoned or lost and survive by eating human garbage or hunt prey for their meals. If the stray is not spay/neutered, it will breed with another stray or feral dog and then you have true feral puppies. Dogs of this nature tend to pack or travel in groups. They will make homes in old coyote or fox dens, under buildings, even under old abandoned vehicles or machinery. They will prey on livestock, chickens, rabbits, rodents, mice and, of course, garbage cans.
Methods of trapping are the same. But release of these dogs is different. If you can, call your local animal control to come to you to get the dog out of the dog trap. They have the necessary equipment to get the wild dog out of the trap and handle the dog after it’s out of the trap. You cannot trust a feral dog. It has been born in the wild without human contact and can be very aggressive. Only those trained in this area should approach or remove the trapped dogs. If the stray of any pack has been a domesticated dog, there’s a chance, with lots of love, care and attention, that this animal can be socialized again and become adoptable. With grown, feral dogs, this is almost impossible. If you trap a stray dog that is lactating, chances are she has a batch of puppies nearby. If feral puppies are caught at a very early age, the chances of socialization are much better and they can usually be adopted out.
The saddest calls of all are the dogs that are raised to fight then are abandoned with horrible wounds and trauma. They are dumped in the country and are forced to live on their own means, if they don’t succumb to their injuries first. County animal control most times ends up shooting or euthanizing these dogs to put them out of their misery. These dogs also will pack and can do great damage to the wildlife and livestock in an area. They also cannot be trusted not to turn on humans, especially children.
We suggest the same dog traps for stray and feral dogs as the domesticated dogs, the 42D dog trap, the 48HD dog trap and the 60D dog trap for the very large dogs. These traps are so quiet that if you miss the dog on the 1st try, they will often go back into the trap again and again as the trap does not traumatize the dogs when the door closes. Spring load traps are also very effective for trapping stray or feral dogs. The advantage is that the trap door locks into place so if the trap is rolled, the trap door cannot come open. The disadvantage is that the trap door is noisier than a gravity trap door and could scare the other dogs watching the trapping procedure.
There’s also a 48F dog trap that is very popular with animal control agencies. The fact that it folds up like a suitcase for storage and that it fits into a trunk of a car, makes it easier to get the trap to where it needs to be set. This dog trap does not have a rear sliding door. The TD1 Divider and a catch pole are very handy accessories for this trap. You put the divider through the top of the trap, pinning the dog in the back part of the trap. Open the front door, then take the catch pole and reach through the tines of the divider and loop the dogs neck. Pull out the divider and you have a restrained dog, ready to lead off into animal control vehicle. Make sure you are using high quality gloves to prevent scratches and biting.
Unlike cats, skunks, raccoons, etc., you cannot let the dogs loose in the wild. They must be taken to a shelter to have the vaccines and care that is needed. They will be deemed adoptable or unadoptable. There are TNR programs for dogs and now dog colonies are being set up. A spayed or neutered dog is not as aggressive as one that is un-spayed/neutered. If the colony is fenced in and has excellent management where the dogs are fed, watered and socialized daily, they can spend the rest of their years in the company of other dogs and live a good life.
This information is only a guideline and is not all inclusive on dogs or trapping dogs. We encourage you to research more about feral and stray dogs and TNR rescue programs in your area. We wish you a happy trapping experience.
I’ll address the domestic dog issue first. If your dog has gone missing, call local shelters, animal control, the police, etc. to see if someone has picked up your dog running loose. Many times, the dog is at the pound or animal shelter, waiting for you to pick him up. If not, then put up posters, phone neighbors, have them look in their yards and outbuildings, contact Craig’s List, put a lost dog ad in your local newspaper, it’s important to communicate as much as you can that your dog is missing. If you receive reports that your dog has been spotted in a certain area, that’s where you should concentrate your search. Someone may be feeding the dog or there is a ready food supply that is keeping him or her in a certain place.
Suggested Dog Traps to Use
If you decide to use a trap, make sure it is large enough to accommodate your dog. We suggest the 42D dog trap for medium dogs and the 48HD dog trap or 60D dog trap for the larger dogs. These are made by Tru-Catch, are powder coated brown and close quietly by gravity. Hot dogs are good as bait, if it rains or snows, the hot dog remains intact. Meat of any kind also works but make sure it is fresh or cooked. Spoiled meat or fish can make your dog sick. Don’t use raw or cooked chicken with bones. Your dog could choke on the bones. Put a piece of clothing, a favorite toy or his dog blanket in the trap. This scent will be familiar to your dog. Make sure the bait is placed behind the trip plate so he has to walk to the back and step on the trip pan to reach the bait. If your dog is hesitant to go into the dog trap, tie the trap door up for a few days, baiting in the center of the trap, this gets the dog used to going in and out for food. On the 4 or 5th day, untie the trap door and place the bait behind the trigger. Covering the trap with an old blanket might be more enticing for your dog. The dog might feel more secure if he/she feels hidden. Of course, we recommend using high quality animal handling gloves for your protection against scratches and bites.
Evening at dusk is the best time to trap. The weather is cooler and your dog will tend to come out of hiding to search for food. Make sure other people are absent as the voices and movements might prevent your dog from coming out. You might have to leave and let the trap do its work. Check early in the morning or as often as you can to see if you were successful. You might find another dog in your trap and have to start over with the procedure.
Trapping wild feral dogs
It’s very hard, sometimes impossible to tell the difference between a stray and feral dog. Stray dogs have been abandoned or lost and survive by eating human garbage or hunt prey for their meals. If the stray is not spay/neutered, it will breed with another stray or feral dog and then you have true feral puppies. Dogs of this nature tend to pack or travel in groups. They will make homes in old coyote or fox dens, under buildings, even under old abandoned vehicles or machinery. They will prey on livestock, chickens, rabbits, rodents, mice and, of course, garbage cans.
Methods of trapping are the same. But release of these dogs is different. If you can, call your local animal control to come to you to get the dog out of the dog trap. They have the necessary equipment to get the wild dog out of the trap and handle the dog after it’s out of the trap. You cannot trust a feral dog. It has been born in the wild without human contact and can be very aggressive. Only those trained in this area should approach or remove the trapped dogs. If the stray of any pack has been a domesticated dog, there’s a chance, with lots of love, care and attention, that this animal can be socialized again and become adoptable. With grown, feral dogs, this is almost impossible. If you trap a stray dog that is lactating, chances are she has a batch of puppies nearby. If feral puppies are caught at a very early age, the chances of socialization are much better and they can usually be adopted out.
The saddest calls of all are the dogs that are raised to fight then are abandoned with horrible wounds and trauma. They are dumped in the country and are forced to live on their own means, if they don’t succumb to their injuries first. County animal control most times ends up shooting or euthanizing these dogs to put them out of their misery. These dogs also will pack and can do great damage to the wildlife and livestock in an area. They also cannot be trusted not to turn on humans, especially children.
We suggest the same dog traps for stray and feral dogs as the domesticated dogs, the 42D dog trap, the 48HD dog trap and the 60D dog trap for the very large dogs. These traps are so quiet that if you miss the dog on the 1st try, they will often go back into the trap again and again as the trap does not traumatize the dogs when the door closes. Spring load traps are also very effective for trapping stray or feral dogs. The advantage is that the trap door locks into place so if the trap is rolled, the trap door cannot come open. The disadvantage is that the trap door is noisier than a gravity trap door and could scare the other dogs watching the trapping procedure.
There’s also a 48F dog trap that is very popular with animal control agencies. The fact that it folds up like a suitcase for storage and that it fits into a trunk of a car, makes it easier to get the trap to where it needs to be set. This dog trap does not have a rear sliding door. The TD1 Divider and a catch pole are very handy accessories for this trap. You put the divider through the top of the trap, pinning the dog in the back part of the trap. Open the front door, then take the catch pole and reach through the tines of the divider and loop the dogs neck. Pull out the divider and you have a restrained dog, ready to lead off into animal control vehicle. Make sure you are using high quality gloves to prevent scratches and biting.
Unlike cats, skunks, raccoons, etc., you cannot let the dogs loose in the wild. They must be taken to a shelter to have the vaccines and care that is needed. They will be deemed adoptable or unadoptable. There are TNR programs for dogs and now dog colonies are being set up. A spayed or neutered dog is not as aggressive as one that is un-spayed/neutered. If the colony is fenced in and has excellent management where the dogs are fed, watered and socialized daily, they can spend the rest of their years in the company of other dogs and live a good life.
This information is only a guideline and is not all inclusive on dogs or trapping dogs. We encourage you to research more about feral and stray dogs and TNR rescue programs in your area. We wish you a happy trapping experience.
Guidelines on trapping a coyote
If you were to ask 50 professional trappers on how to successfully trap a coyote, I bet you would get 50 or more different answers. The coyote or ‘barking dog’ can prove to be one of the hardest of all animals to catch. We do not like nor sell leg hold or snare traps. The web is full of information on how to catch coyote using these types of traps. We only sell and promote live catch box traps for trapping any animal, including the coyote.
The coyote is a relative of the domestic dog and wolf. They are native to North America, a few can be found in some areas of Central America. Coyotes are essentially nocturnal, live an average of 6 to 15 years, they prefer to be alone but have been seen in pairs and packs. They also have been seen eating in the daytime, usually the smaller rodents such as mice. When there is bigger prey, they will hunt in pairs or packs. The parents of coyote pups will stay the summer with their young, an average of 2 to 6 pups in a litter. In recent years, the coyote has become more brazen and are seen within city limits during the daytime. As man encroaches upon their territory for housing, the problem of coyotes has become more troublesome. Coyotes will prey upon chickens, ducks, house cats, rabbits, etc. This is causing problems for people who are raising these animals on their country property. Coyotes have a broad range diet that allows them to live in many different territories. In some areas of the US, the coyotes don’t seem to be as scared to humans as they once were. They have been seen in mall parking lots, on school grounds, in front and backyards of homes, even in the busiest areas of a town or city. The coyote is on the lookout for food and maybe shelter if his home has been built on or destroyed. This shows how adaptable and versatile coyotes are. Even though we see more of them out and about, they are still more afraid of people than we are of them.
Choosing the correct trap for coyotes.
The preferred trap is the Tru-Catch 42D dog trap. It is a medium dog trap that is large enough to trap most sizes for coyotes. The 48F dog trap is also used, especially if someone is setting up a trap line. The location of the trap is important. Coyotes are creatures of habit and return to the same area. If you know where the coyote is entering and leaving your property, this is where the trap should be set. For best results, the dog trap must be concealed. Many use straw or hay bales set around and on top of the trap with only the trap door sticking out. This hides the trap and helps mask any human scent. You can use scent deterrents available in the fishing or hunting section of a store. Or spray apple cider around the trap and as you walk away, this takes away human scent. Coyotes will fight hard after being captured. Make sure you have your plan of action of what you are going to do after trapping the coyote in place. Check your trap often so the coyote doesn’t harm or destroy your trap. Spring load traps also work for catching coyote, make sure they are hidden well as glint of the sun off of metal may prevent the coyote from entering the traps. As always, wear high quality gloves for protection.
Baiting for a Coyote
So many baits but we suggest the most simple first. Coyotes are known for destroying whole watermelon patches. They love the taste and are after the liquid. Use cut watermelon pieces for your first choice of bait. Put a few tidbits leading up to and just inside the front door. Put the main course behind the trap plate so the coyote steps on the plate to get the bait. Stick it a little under the trip pan so he doesn’t grab and run. You can even put the bait underneath the dog trap at the end where you bait. This way he cannot grab and run. If using old meat, rub the sides of the trap down to scent up the area. Put a few tidbits before and just in the trap. Do the same thing with the old meat. Place a little under the trap pan, underneath the trap at the back of the trap or wire it to the back of the trap.
Out west, where we alive, livestock owners have had difficulties with coyotes for years. They will prey upon newborn livestock, lambs and calves. Live food is more appetizing for coyotes than dead animals, although they are seen on highways eating road kill. Some serious folks have found that building or buying a bait cage to put at the rear of the trap works well for coyote bait. They will use a live chicken in the bait cage. The coyote goes into the trap thinking it can get to the chicken by going through the trap. The chicken, although being scared out of its wits, won’t be harmed and you will have a catch. Rotten eggs are also supposed to be good bait for coyotes. If you do an online search, there are 100’s of products that say they will serve as excellent bait for catching coyote, we will leave this up to you.
Please be sure and contact your local authorizes or game warden to find out if there are any rules or constrictions to trapping coyote in your area. Find out the releasing procedures. If there are none, take the coyote as far away as possible, the males can travel 15 miles in one day. They need a food and water source available. Assistance from your game warden will help you in this area.
This information is only a guideline and is not all inclusive on coyotes or trapping coyotes. We encourage you to research more about coyotes and how to trap them successfully. We wish you a happy trapping experience.
The coyote is a relative of the domestic dog and wolf. They are native to North America, a few can be found in some areas of Central America. Coyotes are essentially nocturnal, live an average of 6 to 15 years, they prefer to be alone but have been seen in pairs and packs. They also have been seen eating in the daytime, usually the smaller rodents such as mice. When there is bigger prey, they will hunt in pairs or packs. The parents of coyote pups will stay the summer with their young, an average of 2 to 6 pups in a litter. In recent years, the coyote has become more brazen and are seen within city limits during the daytime. As man encroaches upon their territory for housing, the problem of coyotes has become more troublesome. Coyotes will prey upon chickens, ducks, house cats, rabbits, etc. This is causing problems for people who are raising these animals on their country property. Coyotes have a broad range diet that allows them to live in many different territories. In some areas of the US, the coyotes don’t seem to be as scared to humans as they once were. They have been seen in mall parking lots, on school grounds, in front and backyards of homes, even in the busiest areas of a town or city. The coyote is on the lookout for food and maybe shelter if his home has been built on or destroyed. This shows how adaptable and versatile coyotes are. Even though we see more of them out and about, they are still more afraid of people than we are of them.
Choosing the correct trap for coyotes.
The preferred trap is the Tru-Catch 42D dog trap. It is a medium dog trap that is large enough to trap most sizes for coyotes. The 48F dog trap is also used, especially if someone is setting up a trap line. The location of the trap is important. Coyotes are creatures of habit and return to the same area. If you know where the coyote is entering and leaving your property, this is where the trap should be set. For best results, the dog trap must be concealed. Many use straw or hay bales set around and on top of the trap with only the trap door sticking out. This hides the trap and helps mask any human scent. You can use scent deterrents available in the fishing or hunting section of a store. Or spray apple cider around the trap and as you walk away, this takes away human scent. Coyotes will fight hard after being captured. Make sure you have your plan of action of what you are going to do after trapping the coyote in place. Check your trap often so the coyote doesn’t harm or destroy your trap. Spring load traps also work for catching coyote, make sure they are hidden well as glint of the sun off of metal may prevent the coyote from entering the traps. As always, wear high quality gloves for protection.
Baiting for a Coyote
So many baits but we suggest the most simple first. Coyotes are known for destroying whole watermelon patches. They love the taste and are after the liquid. Use cut watermelon pieces for your first choice of bait. Put a few tidbits leading up to and just inside the front door. Put the main course behind the trap plate so the coyote steps on the plate to get the bait. Stick it a little under the trip pan so he doesn’t grab and run. You can even put the bait underneath the dog trap at the end where you bait. This way he cannot grab and run. If using old meat, rub the sides of the trap down to scent up the area. Put a few tidbits before and just in the trap. Do the same thing with the old meat. Place a little under the trap pan, underneath the trap at the back of the trap or wire it to the back of the trap.
Out west, where we alive, livestock owners have had difficulties with coyotes for years. They will prey upon newborn livestock, lambs and calves. Live food is more appetizing for coyotes than dead animals, although they are seen on highways eating road kill. Some serious folks have found that building or buying a bait cage to put at the rear of the trap works well for coyote bait. They will use a live chicken in the bait cage. The coyote goes into the trap thinking it can get to the chicken by going through the trap. The chicken, although being scared out of its wits, won’t be harmed and you will have a catch. Rotten eggs are also supposed to be good bait for coyotes. If you do an online search, there are 100’s of products that say they will serve as excellent bait for catching coyote, we will leave this up to you.
Please be sure and contact your local authorizes or game warden to find out if there are any rules or constrictions to trapping coyote in your area. Find out the releasing procedures. If there are none, take the coyote as far away as possible, the males can travel 15 miles in one day. They need a food and water source available. Assistance from your game warden will help you in this area.
This information is only a guideline and is not all inclusive on coyotes or trapping coyotes. We encourage you to research more about coyotes and how to trap them successfully. We wish you a happy trapping experience.
